Maura's Creative Adventure: July 2022

I based the depth of the stool on the seat, so that it would be 2x4's all the way across, and the last one would just be cut shorter than the rest. Less finicky cuts that way, and I'm lazy.

I used 2.5" exterior blue kreq pocket hole screws and exterior wood glue throughout.

To create the angled bit on the 2 back pieces, I measure up 30" on the 40.5" 2x4, and 1.5" on the op side. Once I had those two marks, I connected the dots and cut if off with my circular saw.

For the top side support, I measured down 1.5" from the angled bit because the seat is going to be there later and it needs the room.

The extra two pocket holes facing up are for connecting the seat later.

Don't forget to make the two side pieces mirror images of each other so that all the pocket holes face in. You can plug them later if you want.

The extra two little block are for added support for the seat. It probably didn't need it, but I'd rather over build it a bit and not have to worry about it later.

I painted it with just cheap black paint. I meant to put a clear coat over that, but forgot. It's been a couple years now and it's holding up fine, but I would definitely recommend a clear finish over the paint.

The redwood seat and back I finished with boiled linseed oil. Which is fine, but the redwood will grey naturally over time, and the linseed oil will do nothing to stop that. I've read about using a finish that has a UV blocking magic stuff in it, but I haven't tested that yet.

YouTube Video

Cut list:

4 - 4x4's - 40.5" (aprrox 9 x 9 x103 cm)

12 - 2x4's - 20" (approx 4 x 9 x 51 cm)

5 - 2x4's - 5' (approx 4 x 9 x 152 cm)

4 - Redwood - 2x6's - 5'3" (approx 4 x 15 x 160 cm)

3 - Redwood fence boards 7.5" Wide (19 cm) - 5'3" Long (160 cm) (if you find thinner boards, just get enough to fill the lower shelf)

1 - Redwood - 2x6 - 6'8" (approx 4 x 15 x 203 cm)

2 - Redwood - 2x6's - 2'6" (approx 4 x 15 x 76 cm)

1 - Redwood - 2x6 - 5'9" (175cm) (approx) cut to fit

2 - Redwood - 2x6's - 24.5" (62cm) (approx) cut to fit

14 - Redwood fence boards 7.5" (19cm) Wide - 39.5" (100cm) Tall.

7 - 2x4's - 12" (approx 4 x 9 x 30.5 cm)

(all of my metric measurements are based on how I get lumber in the US. A 2x4 here is about 1.5 x 3.5" which is roughly 4 x 9cm. Other parts of the world sell their lumber differently I think, so please adjust your measurements to fit your lumber. If someone know how to do the metric version of this better, please let me know!)

- Exterior wood glue

- 2.5" exterior screws, I used the blue Kreg ones

- 4 furniture feet. (I couldn't find exterior ones, so I used interior. But it has been a few years now and so far so good. I just wanted to make sure the 4x4's wouldn't be sitting in water and rotting)

- exterior nails or screws for attaching the fence boards. (I recommend using the pricy screws, stainless steel I think, as opposed to the cheap ones that I use that left a black streak down from each nail...)

I built the frame out of scrap pine since I new that I would be painting it. There are better woods to choose for outdoors, but I was trying to save money and use what I had laying around. I used 2.5" exterior pocket hole screws and exterior glue. The pocket holes on the 2x4s are on the outside of the frame since the fence boards will cover them up later, leaving the inside cleaner looking.

Next I connected the two sides with 2x4s and pocket hole screws. On the bartender's side, I raised the rail up by 1.5" so that when I add in the countertop later it will sit next to this rail instead of on it. If I had to do over again, I think I would lower that to the same height as the rest of the rails. It would mean more notching of the countertop later to make it fit though. Personal preference.

The 2x4 supports are sideways on the top since the front rail is higher.

I painted the frame black before adding the redwood countertop and shelf. The countertop is made from 2x6s and the shelf if made from redwood fence boards.

I waited until now to add the rail at the top so that I would be easier to add in the countertop without this rail in the way. But before you add the rails, pocket hole them so that you can add the countertop later. The pocket holes should be on the outside so that when the fence boards get added later, they cover up the holes. I love pocket holes, but then don't look great, so I try to hide them whenever possible.

The countertop was made on the ground connected with pocket hole screws and glue.

I used redwood fence boards to wrap around the front and the sides. I started in the middle and worked my way out so that any boards that may need to be cut will be equal on the ends. Putting the boards up like this will not make it water proof, by a long shot. I wasn't concerned about that since the front was open and rain would obviously get it. But I was really surprised by how much water gets through those fence boards. So I solved this by not storing anything on that shelf that I don't want to get wet. Really wet.

Originally I wanted to put a mini fridge on that shelf. But all the rainwater made that a bad idea. Even in California. I suppose I could put one in just during the summer when I would use it the most. But then where would I put it the rest of the year.